Here’s where your sub enclosure is going to start to take shape.  Determining the final position of the sub(s) might be tough or easy, depending on your application.  Mine was quite tough.  The fact is, I thought I was going to have more room than what I wound up with.  I originally planned to have the subs facing the same direction.  However, due to space constraints, it was necessary for me to angle the subs to get them both to fit, and finding the proper angles for the space I had was difficult.  A single sub setup, or a larger enclosure, would help in positioning the woofers without interference.

            Using the wood dowels, I began cutting pieces and attaching them to the rings and to the back of the enclosure.  Basically, the idea is simply to support the rings in any way possible, so long as they are reasonably sturdy, and the supports do not interfere with the woofers or magnets.  I used a hot glue gun to secure the dowels.

            I have seen setups where the supports were made with scraps of MDF, steel strapping material – basically anything.  Use whatever you feel is best, and whatever works for you.

            Remember – I had NOT yet trimmed my mold.  Under most circumstances, you would probably have yours trimmed before reaching this phase.

            After the sub placement was determined, and the rings were reasonably secure, you will want to add more fiberglass to the mold.  This will not only add more rigidity, but you should attempt to “embed” the dowels in fiberglass.  This will permanently set them in place, and allow them to brace the final enclosure.  If your mold is nice and thick already, just add fiberglass to the dowel attachment points.  If you have any weak spots in the mold, now is the time to reinforce them.  Don’t worry if you go over your nice cleanly trimmed edge – you can always re-trim it later.

            NOTE:  Fiberglass is stronger in curves than in flat areas!  Any areas of your enclosure that are gently curving or flat should be reinforced with extra layers of fiberglass.  You can also insert rope, or small strips of wood, dowels, MDF, or almost any other material underneath several layers of fiberglass to artificially create “ribs” to act as curves and strengthen the enclosure.  In the first picture, the upper left corner of my mold was relatively flat, and somewhat weak.  Not only did I add extra layers to this area, but I also cut it back significantly when I trimmed the mold to shape.  Any large areas of your mold that can be flexed with hand pressure should be well reinforced.

            We’re getting there…..



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